Hand-raised
rabbits in Tucson.

Send me a text or a note. Tell me about your home and who the rabbit is for. I'll tell you which one fits, or if the next litter would suit you better.

Then come and meet them. The visit is free, and nothing has to be decided on the day. There's no pressure to buy: a rabbit is a commitment of 8 to 12 years.

A $50 deposit reserves the one you choose. It comes off the price, and you get a receipt from me. Rabbits open for reservation at four weeks old.

Pickup is when the rabbit is ready. Eight weeks is what I aim for. We go through the care sheet together and you leave with everything that comes with it.

Or I bring it to you. Free weekend delivery anywhere in Arizona, and I bring others along, so you can still choose in person.

The price on the photo is the price you pay. No fee to visit, no booking fee, nothing added at pickup, and weekend delivery anywhere in Arizona is free.

Each rabbit has its own price. Right now Marshmallow is $350, and Butterscotch is $300.

What you get for paying more. A rabbit in Tucson can be had for under a hundred. Here's what comes with these:

• Handled every day from its first week. Handled early, a rabbit comes to people instead of running from them (opens in a new tab). Each one meets new people before it goes home.
• A record you can check. Its birth date, its litter from the day it was born, its parents and dated photos, all on this site.
• A health check you watch. Ears, teeth, eyes, weight and coat, checked together, and it goes home when it passes the test. If it doesn't, your $50 deposit comes back.
• Two weeks of its food, bamboo to chew, and a care sheet. The Tucson vets who treat rabbits, and my number for as long as you have it.
• If it isn't working out, you call me. I'd rather help it find the right home than have it stay where it isn't wanted.
• Every sale goes toward the next breeding rabbits. Where the money goes.

The rabbit is the smallest part of what it costs. A year of keeping one comes to $1,672 to $3,354 (opens in a new tab) on Chewy's vet-reviewed figures, and with good care they live 8 to 12 years.

10% off for military and first responders. That includes police and firefighters. Say so when you get in touch.

You can buy on a payment plan. If paying all at once is hard, that's what it's for: you pay over time and still take your rabbit home. Text or call me, and we'll work out a plan that fits you. How paying works.

Ask any seller the same questions. Here are the eight I'd ask.

Yes. Free weekend delivery anywhere in Arizona. Tell me roughly where you are when you get in touch.

A $50 deposit books the trip. It comes off the price like any deposit, and you get a receipt. The rest can wait until the rabbit is in your hands.

You still choose in person. I bring others along, so if another one suits you better once you meet them, you can switch. Your first switch is free.

Want it on a day you pick? Once it's ready, I'll drive it to you that day, for a price we agree on first, fair to both of us.

A delivery goes the same way as a pickup. We do the health check together with the rabbit in your hands, and you get the food and the care sheet.

Heat is the one thing I'm firm about. What matters is the temperature the rabbit would be sitting in on the way, and that has to stay under the mid-80s (opens in a new tab). If a trip isn't safe on the day, we move it, and I'll say so.

A $50 deposit reserves a rabbit and comes off the price. You get a receipt from me, and that rabbit is yours until pickup. Reserving a second for the pair price works a little differently.

Reservations open at four weeks old. Before that, a baby's sex and color are still a guess, and I won't take money for a guess.

Change your mind before pickup? The $50 moves to another rabbit. Or to the next litter. It isn't refunded, because reserving a rabbit means turning other people away.

Change your mind at pickup? You get the whole $50 back. That's for the first rabbit you reserve. If you've switched rabbits before, we settle on what it cost me, fair to both of us. I'd rather you said so than took one home unsure.

Your first switch to another rabbit is free. After that, each switch is $25, half the deposit. Each one after the first puts a rabbit back on the list weeks late.

Three things get the $50 back, no argument:

• The rabbit gets ill or doesn't make it while still in my care.
• I'm the one who cancels, for any reason.
• The rabbit isn't what I told you it was. Wrong sex, a color clearly different from the listing, not the rabbit you reserved, or it fails the health check at pickup.

Normal changes as it grows don't get the $50 back. Color and markings can still shift after four weeks. I'll say what's certain when you reserve, and you'll get photos the whole way.

Meet them first, then pay. Visits are free, and there's no pressure to buy. Come and see them and pay the deposit in cash while you're here, so nothing is at stake until you've decided.

Further away? Only the $50 deposit is paid before you meet it, with a receipt. The rest can wait until the rabbit is in your hands, at your door.

Zelle, Apple Pay, or cash. The $50 deposit reserves the rabbit. Pay the rest when you pick it up, or on a payment plan. Cash is easiest at pickup.

You can buy on a payment plan. If paying all at once is hard, that's what it's for: you pay over time and still take your rabbit home. Text or call me, and we'll work out a plan that fits you.

Every payment gets a receipt from me. Deposit or balance, whichever way you pay, I send you written confirmation the moment it lands, so you have it on record.

Once a rabbit goes home, the sale is final. The terms page has all of this on one sheet.

Eight weeks is what I aim for. Every listing shows the rabbit's age today, and whether it is open to reserve.

The test is the same every time. Off milk and eating hay and pellets on its own. Eating and drinking well, on the same food, for at least seven days. Holding or gaining weight when I weigh it, with nothing wrong with it that I can find. One that isn't there yet waits, whatever its age.

Eight weeks is when the changeover is done. Babies wean at four to six weeks and lose the protection of their mother's milk while their gut is still learning solid food. The House Rabbit Society says not to take them away “until they are a full eight weeks of age” (opens in a new tab). The RSPCA agrees (opens in a new tab): eight weeks, “fully weaned and independent”.

The risk is in those weeks, and it's rare. The Merck Veterinary Manual (opens in a new tab) puts enterotoxaemia, a severe gut disease, “primarily” in rabbits “4–8 weeks old”, and names diet and the stress of weaning. A new house and new food land in that same window. So the younger a rabbit goes, the more room there is for something to go wrong.

They go home eating what they eat here. Two weeks of that food goes in the bag. Nothing changes on day one.

A Ready date on a listing is the day I expect it to be ready. You'll get photos and video the whole way through, so the wait is easier.

Eight questions, and where this site answers each one. Take them to any seller.

When was it born, and how old is it today? Both are on every listing here, and the age is counted today.

Can I see its litter and its parents? Its litter from its first day, and the mother and father on every listing.

Who handles it, and since when? I do, every day from its first week, and it meets new people before it goes home.

When can it go home, and what decides that? Eight weeks is what I aim for, and a test every rabbit passes first.

What's the health check, and can I watch? Ears, teeth, eyes, weight and coat, done with you at pickup.

What comes with it? Two weeks of its food, bamboo to chew, the care sheet, the vets, and my number for as long as you have it.

What if it isn't working out? You call me, and we find it the right home.

Where are the terms, in writing? On one page, deposit to final sale.

The cages are for the mothers, not for everyone. The young rabbits are out running through the day, and so are the bucks (the males). A mother usually stays in, because she is nursing.

A nursing mother needs her nest box to stay put. A rabbit feeds her litter once or twice a day, and only when she feels safe (opens in a new tab). The box has to be where she left it, quiet, with nobody else in it. So a mother and her litter are housed on their own, as the university guide to raising rabbits (opens in a new tab) says.

Keeping them apart is how a pedigree stays true. Nothing breeds by accident here, so I know every rabbit's mother and father. That is what lets me tell you exactly what you are buying.

A cage is not a home for a pet rabbit. The welfare groups are right about that, and the indoors answer says the same: an indoor pen with room to run (opens in a new tab), and time out every day.

The ages are counted on the day you look. The page counts from each rabbit's birth date every time it opens, and again at midnight if you leave it open.

Every photo carries its own date. Open one and the day it was taken is on the picture, bottom left, with the rabbit's age that day.

Availability changes the day a rabbit is reserved or sold. The line above the rabbits says when it last changed, or when I last looked at the pens and nothing had.

If you have time for one every day, yes. First-timers are often who I enjoy working with most, because they actually read the care sheet.

Cats or dogs at home? Often fine, with slow introductions. How.

Here's what it takes.

• Time every day. Hay, water and a quick clean, and several hours per day (opens in a new tab) out of their pen.
• An indoor pen. In a room you use, with space to run. Why indoors.
• A vet who treats rabbits. Not every vet does (opens in a new tab); the one I use.
• 8 to 12 years. How long they live.
• About $1,672 to $3,354 a year. What keeping one costs, on Chewy's vet-reviewed figures (opens in a new tab).

You won't be guessing. A written care sheet, two weeks of their food, and my number for as long as you have them.

Rabbits and kids do well together with a grown-up in charge. Kids sit on the floor and let the rabbit come to them. The lifting is an adult's job (opens in a new tab), and the daily care is too.

Often, yes, with slow introductions. Tell me what animals you have when you get in touch. If a rabbit isn't right for your home, I'll say so.

They're used to a busy house. Here they hear household noise, spend time outside and meet new people. Your home is one more new place, not the first.

Cats usually settle in. The House Rabbit Society says indoor cats typically will peacefully coexist (opens in a new tab) with rabbits after proper introductions. Start with the rabbit in a pen the cat can't reach into, and keep the cat's claws trimmed.

With a dog, it depends on the dog. A calm dog that doesn't chase small animals can learn, on a lead and lying down, in short visits. Terriers and hunting breeds are the hardest. Supervision is required until 100% trust has been achieved (opens in a new tab).

Always give the rabbit a way out. A hiding place it can reach, and never leave a dog on its own with rabbits (opens in a new tab).

Yes. One rabbit does well when its pen is in the room where your family spends the day. The House Rabbit Society suggests a single rabbit for people who work from home or have flex schedules (opens in a new tab).

Then you are its company. The RSPCA's advice for a rabbit on its own: interact with them daily (opens in a new tab).

Change your mind later? Within 48 hours of the first one going home, a second is still 20% off. After that, I'll help you introduce one. How pairs work.

Yes. Two together: the second is 20% off. The second is whichever costs less, same litter or not.

Not sure about a second? You have 48 hours. Buy the second, or put a $50 deposit on it, within 48 hours of the first one going home, and the 20% still applies.

A $50 deposit on the second keeps the pair price for a month. Need longer? Another $50 keeps it going, and every $50 comes off the price. Switching to a different rabbit is free once, and a switch doesn't extend the month. When the month is up I'll check in, and you'll have a week to decide.

Rabbits are a highly social species. The RSPCA's words (opens in a new tab): they need companionship as much as a healthy diet. Just one? Then you are its company.

Littermates already get along. They've been together since the day they were born, so a pair from one litter goes home used to each other.

To keep it that way, both need neutering. Rabbits hit puberty at about three to four months (opens in a new tab), and that's when siblings start to fight. The usual way through is to separate them then, neuter both, and reunite them a month after surgery; bonding again isn't guaranteed. We'll talk it through before you take a pair.

Two that didn't grow up together need a proper introduction. Both neutered first, then short meetings on neutral ground (opens in a new tab), a little longer each day. Breed doesn't change the steps. I'll walk you through it.

Yes, at your home. On a free weekend delivery I bring others along with the one you reserved, and your rabbit meets them there. If another one gets along with yours better, you can switch. Your first switch is free.

Pick a room your rabbit doesn't use. A rabbit guards its own space, so a first meeting goes better on ground that's new to both.

A good first meeting is a start. Living together takes a few more steps, and I'll walk you through them.

A pen indoors, in a room you use. A pen rather than a cage, with room to hop, and time out of it every day. Why indoors.

A litter box with hay in it. Rabbits like to eat while they go, so hay in the box keeps them using it. How the box works.

Water, hay and a box to hide in. Fresh water every day and grass hay always there. A cardboard box with a doorway cut in it helps a rabbit feel safe (opens in a new tab).

Cables out of reach. Rabbits chew them. The House Rabbit Society's advice: cords in tubing or out of reach (opens in a new tab).

The food comes with it. Two weeks of what it eats now, bamboo to chew and the care sheet. Everything that comes with it.

Indoors, especially here. Rabbits handle cold far better than heat, and anything over the mid-80s for long is dangerous (opens in a new tab). A Tucson summer is too hot for a hutch outside.

An indoor pen with daily run-around time. That's what I recommend. Supervised, because rabbits chew cables. What to have ready.

Mostly hay, as much as it wants. Grass hay like timothy is about 85% of a grown rabbit's diet. The House Rabbit Society: unlimited fresh hay, every day (opens in a new tab).

A grown rabbit also gets greens and a few pellets. At least three kinds of leafy greens a day, one new kind at a time, and a small amount of plain timothy pellets, not a mix with seeds or nuts.

Fruit only as a treat. A small piece, once or twice a week.

Fresh water, always. Changed every day.

Its first two weeks, the same food as here. It goes home with two weeks of it. After that, anything new goes in slowly, one food at a time, because a sudden change upsets a rabbit's stomach. The care sheet goes through its diet in detail.

Usually, yes. Rabbits choose a corner to go in, so a box in that corner gets used. Put hay in the box or next to it (opens in a new tab), because they like to eat while they go.

A young one takes a little patience. Older rabbits often learn faster, and spaying or neutering usually helps.

A few droppings outside the box are normal. It's how a rabbit marks its space. Dry, hard droppings are nothing to worry about.

Paper or wood-pellet litter, never clumping cat litter. A thin layer, with hay on top. Pine and cedar shavings are out too.

Not much for a short coat. A brush once a week is plenty, a little more when they shed. Nails every few weeks.

A woolly coat needs more. Some of my rabbits have a longer, wavy coat, and a coat like that needs daily grooming (opens in a new tab) so it doesn't mat.

No baths. They keep themselves clean, and a bath is stressful and dangerous for a rabbit (opens in a new tab).

8 to 12 years indoors, with good care. That is the House Rabbit Society's range (opens in a new tab). Spayed or neutered and kept indoors, about ten is typical.

Care makes the difference. A study of 6,349 pet rabbits in England found the typical one died at 4.3 years (opens in a new tab). A Tokyo clinic's 898 cases put it at 7 years (opens in a new tab). Flystrike led the causes in England, with not eating next. Not eating is on my same-day emergency list, and you keep my number for life.

These signs are a same-day emergency: Not eating, no droppings, hunched and quiet, breathing hard, or loose watery droppings. Get to a rabbit-savvy vet. A rabbit that isn't eating can go from a little off to critical in hours (opens in a new tab). Don't wait to reach me first. Text me on the way and I'll help with whatever I can.

For anything that isn't urgent, call me. Whether you've had the rabbit three days or three years, I'd rather hear early than after it's serious.

My health check before every rabbit leaves. We do it together at pickup with the rabbit in your hands: ears, teeth, eyes, weight and coat. If it doesn't pass, it doesn't go home, and you get your deposit back in full.

Once a rabbit goes home, the sale is final. Nothing about the rabbit is hidden from you on the day, and you leave with everything that comes with it.

If it isn't working out, call me. It isn't a refund, but I'll help you find it the right home.

What I promise: a rabbit that was healthy when you took it, and me reachable for the whole of its life.

The deposit refunds are separate. All of those happen before a rabbit ever leaves here. They're in the deposit answer.

Santa Cruz Veterinary Clinic, and book months ahead. They see rabbits, and for the price they are the best option in town. They're booked about four months out, so book the first check-up the day you reserve. 5408 S 12th Ave, (520) 889-9643.

Their prices are on their own site. In September 2026 their list (opens in a new tab) read: office exam $50, recheck $35, rabbit neuter $160, rabbit spay $200, X-rays $175, in-house bloodwork $100. Prices change, so their list is the one that counts. They ask every client to spay or neuter, which I would tell you to do anyway.

Arizona Exotic Animal Hospital sees rabbits too. It's on Grant Road. If Santa Cruz can't fit you in, the hospital asks you to call for anything within two days: (520) 305-0055.

A sick rabbit does not wait for an appointment. If you see any of the same-day emergency signs, call whoever can see you today.

Yes, for rabbits I've bred. One rabbit is $20 a day, dropping to $15 a day after the first week. A bonded pair sharing a pen is $30 a day, dropping to $22.

Stays of up to three days are free. A longer stay is charged from its first day.

Priced by the day on purpose. You only pay for the days you're away, and you can extend without renegotiating anything.

Food, bedding and handling are included. Hay, pellets, clean bedding and the same daily handling they grew up with, and photos while you're gone.

Why only my own rabbits: RHDV2 (opens in a new tab), a virus in Arizona's wild rabbits, survives for months in the environment (opens in a new tab) and travels on shoes and clothing. Keeping outside rabbits away lowers the risk for every rabbit here, the babies included.

Rabbit from somewhere else? Ask me anyway and I'll point you to a Tucson boarder or exotic vet who takes outside rabbits.